Laced-Up Bralette FREE Crochet Pattern

Have you ever heard that saying that says something about how in every struggle you can find a blessing?

Well, last week I frogged an entire garment that I'd been working on. It just didn't work out the way I had planned and with me being a total perfectionist, I knew I had to rip it out. If I didn't, I wouldn't of been happy with it and it would have been a waste of good yarn. I guess it was just "one of those weeks" for me. I mean, I'm used to getting bored of a big project or angry that my math isn't adding up right. Sometimes it happens with something that I'm designing (where it's taken me months to get something just right). Other times, I get stressed out over a single row in a pattern I'm working up. I guess that's just me though. Truth is, I started designing crochet patterns because I'm a tad bit OCD about certain things and how they are worded/written. I really struggled to follow along with patterns written by other people. I don't know why. It's just always something that was hard for me...

So, anyway.. that's where that saying comes back in. I'm a glass half-full kinda girl. I always try to look on the bright side of things and make the most of what I've got ..even if it isn't much. I knew that something good would come from those four balls of frogged yarn. I just didn't know what it would be or when it would happen. So, here's my advice if you're struggling to keep up with orders, or with designing or working up a new pattern (whatever the case may be).. take a step back for the day and do something different! Just one day. Go outside and go for a walk. Go out to lunch. Go shopping. Get away from your screen. Maybe bake something for your family or make something for yourself! I know it's hard.. but that project/pattern/order/etc. will still be there tomorrow. Your social media friends (believe it or not) will still be there tomorrow. When it's hard to focus, or you're feeling burnt out from it all.. take a day for yourself and re-charge. I'm telling ya, we ALL need it.. and you deserve it!

So, I took a step back from designing and made something just for me! When I was done.. I felt inspired! I created, photographed and wrote this pattern in just 2 short days. TWO DAYS! Granted, I still had to get through the pattern testing phase, but I felt like I had really accomplished something after having such a crappy week! I was originally going to write the pattern for 4 sizes, but I had quite a few people contact me wanting to test for larger ones.. so I did a bit of math and sent the pattern out to my amazing testers. They helped me double check my math for FIVE different sizes! It makes me so happy that I am now able to offer this pattern in a size for every body/shape & size!

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Here is the FREE crochet pattern for the Lace-Up Bralette!
Pattern written & created by April Turner (@fibermeup)

MATERIALS:
• You will need 1-2 skeins of Lionbrand's 24/7 cotton yarn (186 - 372 yds).
• Size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook

You could use any Medium weight cotton that you'd like, however I do highly recommend the 24/7 cotton from Lionbrand. This is my fourth time working with this yarn and I can't help but share how wonderful it is! It's a 100% mercerized cotton, so it's super strong and can withstand a lot of wear. You'd think a strong yarn would be rough, but it's surprisingly soft and flexible! And, did I mention it comes in 24 shades? I mean, how can you go wrong?

SIZES: (A, B, C, D, DD)
Pattern includes instructions for A, B, C, D, and DD. The ties are adjustable to any length.
(For reference: model in photo wears a 34 A/B and is wearing the B cup size for a bit more coverage.)

ABBREVIATIONS:
C = chain
St. = stitch
Slip St. = slip stitch
SC = single crochet
HDC = half double crochet
DC = double crochet


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PATTERN:
CUP #1



Row 1. C12, turn. HDC in the 3rd st. from your hook and in the next 9 sts. (10x total) DC 2x, then HDC once more - all in that same last stitch. (4 sts. total). Now, begin working down the other side. HDC 10x across to the end. Do not join.


Row 2. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 10x across to the end of the row (11 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 11x across to the end.


Row 3. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 11x across to the end of the row (12 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 12x across to the end.


Row 4. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 12x across to the end of the row (13 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 13x across to the end.


Row 5. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 13x across to the end of the row (14 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 14x across to the end.


Row 6. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 14x across to the end of the row (15 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 15x across to the end.


For the A-CUP (complete rows 1 through 6 and then..)
Row 7. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 15x across to the end of the row (16 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 16x across to the end.
Row 8. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 16x across to the end of the row (17 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 17x across to the end.
Fasten off. REPEAT FOR CUP #2.


For the B-CUP (complete rows 1 through 6 and then..)
Row 7. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 15x across to the end of the row (16 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 16x across to the end.
Row 8. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 16x across to the end of the row (17 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 17x across to the end.
Row 9. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 17x across to the end of the row (18 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 18x across to the end.
Row 10. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 18x across to the end of the row (19 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 19x across to the end.
Fasten off. REPEAT FOR CUP #2.


For the C-CUP (complete rows 1 through 6 and then..)
Row 7. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 15x across to the end of the row (16 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 16x across to the end.
Row 8. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 16x across to the end of the row (17 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 17x across to the end.
Row 9. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 17x across to the end of the row (18 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 18x across to the end.
Row 10. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 18x across to the end of the row (19 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 19x across to the end.
Row 11. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 19x across to the end of the row (20 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 20x across to the end.
Row 12. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 20x across to the end of the row (21 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 21x across to the end.
Fasten off. REPEAT FOR CUP #2.


For the D-CUP (complete rows 1 through 6 and then..)
Row 7. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 15x across to the end of the row (16 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 16x across to the end.
Row 8. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 16x across to the end of the row (17 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 17x across to the end.
Row 9. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 17x across to the end of the row (18 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 18x across to the end.
Row 10. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 18x across to the end of the row (19 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 19x across to the end.
Row 11. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 19x across to the end of the row (20 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 20x across to the end.
Row 12. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 20x across to the end of the row (21 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 21x across to the end.
Row 13. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 21x across to the end of the row (22 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 22x across to the end.
Row 14. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 22x across to the end of the row (23 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 23x across to the end.
Fasten off. REPEAT FOR CUP #2.

For the DD-CUP (complete rows 1 through 6 and then..)
Row 7. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 15x across to the end of the row (16 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 16x across to the end.
Row 8. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 16x across to the end of the row (17 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 17x across to the end.
Row 9. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 17x across to the end of the row (18 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 18x across to the end.
Row 10. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 18x across to the end of the row (19 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 19x across to the end.
Row 11. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 19x across to the end of the row (20 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 20x across to the end.
Row 12. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 20x across to the end of the row (21 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 21x across to the end.
Row 13. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 21x across to the end of the row (22 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 22x across to the end.
Row 14. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 22x across to the end of the row (23 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 23x across to the end.
Row 15. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 23x across to the end of the row (24 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 24x across to the end.
Row 16. C2, turn (counts as first HDC). HDC (not in the same st.) 24x across to the end of the row (25 sts. total). DC 3x in the next st. (at the top/corner), then HDC 25x across to the end.
Fasten off. REPEAT FOR CUP #2.


THE BAND:
Once you have both of the cups completed, we will begin to work on the bottom band. This style, is what I like to call: "one-size-fits-all" because it's literally just a continuously long tie, worked side to side. There is no fancy lacing required for this top (which I really love)! It's super simple and ties up into a bow just like a regular old bikini top!

For reference: I wear a 34 A/B and I chained 80 sts. for each side of my band.
For 28" to 34" around -- I recommend starting your band with a chain of 80 sts.
For 36" + up around -- I recommend starting your band with a chain of 100 sts.

Remember: this part is fully customizable! If you'd prefer a smaller bow, make your chain a little shorter. If you prefer to have a some wiggle room, make it longer! The length is up to you. I do highly recommend making your first chain and attaching it to the bottom of the first cup only - so that you can hold it up and make sure - once it wraps around your side, you still have enough to tie a decent sized bow! (Keep in mind.. some yarns have more "give" than others!)


Row 1. Chain 80 (100) or another number for a comfortable fit. Begin working SCs across the bottom of your first cup. C2 at the center (between cups). Then, work SCs across the bottom of your second cup. Once complete, you will make one more long chain on the other side. Chain the same exact number you did on your first tie, plus two! Don't forget to add in those 2 extra chains. (They count as your beginning C2 for the next row.)


Row 2. Turn. HDC in the 3rd stitch from your hook - all the way across to the other end.
For larger sizes, you may want to add an extra 2-4 rows to your band for more support.
Fasten off. Your band is now complete and you are ready to move on to your straps.




Re-attach yarn with a slip stitch in the center DC at the top of Cup #1.
Chain 82 (102) or as many as you need for the best fit (+2)! Turn. HDC in the 3rd st. from your hook -- and down the strap to the top of your cup. Slip st. again into that same center st. (Now, we begin working down Cup #1, across the center and back up to the top of Cup #2.) SC 2x in the first stitch (as you begin working down Cup #1) *C1, skip next, SC 2x in next.* Repeat from * to * to the bottom of the first cup. SC across the 2-3 stitches in the center of your top (between Cup #1 and Cup #2). SC 2x in the first stitch (as you now begin working up the side of Cup #2) *C1, skip next, SC 2x in next.* Rep from * to * to the top of Cup #2. (end with a C1, and then again..you will slip stitch into the center DC at the top of Cup #2.) Chain the same number of stitches you did for the first strap (remember to add in your +2 at the end). Now, do the same. Turn. HDC in the 3rd st. from your hook -- and down the strap to the top of your cup. Slip st. once more into that same center DC stitch. Now, fasten off here and tuck in all of the loose ends.

Next, cut a piece of yarn to weave through the center of your top for the laced-up look! Beginning at the bottom, weave your yarn through (the back-side) of the first C1-space at the bottom of each cup.. then lace it up (continue through each C1-space) as you would a shoe lace. You can go as high or low as you want and you can let them hang or tie a bow. (NOTE: Trim, then knot both ends of the yarn to add a bit of weight and to keep them from fraying!)

You're Laced-Up Bralette is complete!

Tag @fibermeup and use #LacedUpBralette on your WIPs!
I love sharing and reposting all of your projects!

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This is an original pattern. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you'd like to share the pattern, please link directly back to this post. You may NOT sell or distribute it, however you may sell any items made from the pattern. Please always credit the design to me: April Turner and provide a link back to my blog.

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I hope you all enjoy creating with this FREE pattern!
If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment down below.. or shoot me a DM on Instagram!

Happy Hookin'