Bonfire Cardi FREE Crochet Pattern

As some of you know, last month I teamed up with Premier Yarns to create a design inspired by their new Rodeo yarn. When I first saw this yarn, I was immediately excited to work with it! Not only is it soft and beautiful, it's made from recycled cotton.. so, it's eco-friendly as well. I worked up some swatches right away and fell in love! The marled color worked up so beautifully and the yarn itself added this amazing weight and drape to my piece, which in my opinion - is a must for garments! I hate when a piece is too stiff. Here's a little more about the yarn I worked with....

Rodeo is a super soft, cotton blend yarn (85% Cotton / 15% Polyester). It's considered a medium (4) weight yarn, though I'd say it's a teeny bit lighter than most other mediums (which is a BIG plus in my book)! It's made from recycled cotton. That's what gives it that beautiful - rustic texture. What's even better? It comes in a selection of coordinating solids and marl colors - making it super easy to create a gradient in your work without lots of fuss!

You can purchase the yarn I used below!

Here is the FREE crochet pattern for the Bonfire Cardi!
Pattern written & created by April Turner (@fibermeup)

MATERIALS:
• You will need 4-5 skeins of Premier yarn's brand new RODEO yarn in Light Indigo.
You could use other Medium weight yarn too. (approx. 4-5 skeins: 1,060 - 1,325 yds)
I used exactly 4 skeins for my size S/M Cardi with just scraps leftover.
• Size G (4.5 mm) crochet hook

SIZE: (Adult)
Fits an Adult size S/M, however the pattern can be easily adjusted for larger sizes.
(For size reference, the model in photo is 5'7, 124 lbs and is wearing the S/M size.)

ABBREVIATIONS:
C = chain
St. = stitch
SC = single crochet
DC = double crochet

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NOTE: This cardigan is made in Adult size S/M. For sizing adjustments, please read the following..
The body of your cardigan consists of one large back panel that is split into two to create the front.

For more width: simply add sts. to the foundation chain in Row 1. This stitch is worked in multiples of 4 + 3. It creates a cluster type of stitch. Each cluster adds approx. 1" of width. You must add an even number of clusters. Adding an extra 11 chains (4 + 4 + 3) will add approx. 2" inch of width to your cardigan. Make note of these adjustments as you go along, so you know the number of stitches you'll need to do for the front.

For more length: simply add extra rows! 2 extra rows adds about 1" of length. Just remember, If you add 2 additional rows to your back panel, make a note and do the same for each of your front panels to ensure they come out even!

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PATTERN: Back panel.

Row 1. C76 + 3 (79 total). DC 2x in the 5th chain from your hook, then C1 and DC 2x more in that same stitch. *Skip the next 3 chains, [DC 2x, C1, DC 2x] all in the next stitch.* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. When you've reached your last 2 stitches, skip the next and DC in the last stitch.

Row 2. C3, turn your work. *[DC 2x, C1, DC 2x]* all in the first C1-space. Repeat from * to * in each C1-space across to the end of the row. When you've reached your last 2 sts., skip the next and DC in the top of your beginning chain.

Row 3. Repeat Row 2: for your third row of cluster stitches.

Row 4. Is made up of stitches that look like Vs and Xs. If you look closely it creates a mono-chromatic striped effect.
C3, turn your work. *[DC, C1, DC] all in the first C1-space. Skip the next 2 sts., DC in the 3rd st., then go back and DC in the st. before it (creating a crossed stitch, that looks sort of like an X).* Repeat from * to * to the end of the row. When you've reached your last 2 sts., skip the next and DC in the top of your beginning chain.

Row 5. C3, turn your work. *[DC 2x, C1, DC 2x] all in the first C1-space. Skip the crossed stitch (AKA "x-stitch") and repeat from * to * in each C1-space across to the end of the row. DC in the last stitch (top of your beginning chain).

Row 6. Repeat Row 2 (clusters).

Row 7. Repeat Row 2 (clusters).

Row 8. Repeat Row 4 (Xs and Vs).

Row 9. Repeat Row 5 (back to clusters).

Row 10. Repeat Row 2 (clusters).
Row 11. Repeat Row 2 (clusters).
Do not fasten off here.

Continue on repeating rows 8 through 11 until you've reached your desired length. I repeated them ten more times for a total of 51 rows. (Please note: I'm 5'7 and this is rather long on me.) If I were to make another, I think I'd go with one less repeat, so it doesn't end up so much longer than my shorts! If you're shorter, you'll likely only want to repeat the rows 7 - 9 times. If you're taller, you may want to make your cardigan longer by repeating the rows 11 times. Either way, now is the best time to hold it up and measure so you can get a good idea of the size!

Front panel #1: Here we split off to one side and begin to work the first panel for the front.
NOTE: If you added stitches to your foundation chain (at the very beginning) to make a larger size, you must add extra stitches to each of your front panels as well. You would have added an even number of clusters. So, say for instance.. you added 11 additional chains to your foundation (11 chains = 2 clusters). You'll divide that number in half to get ONE - this means you must add ONE cluster to each of the front panels. In Row 1. Add one V st. and one X st. for each added cluster.

Row 1. We begin the first panel with a shortened repeat of Row 4 (Xs and Vs). C3, turn your work. *[DC, C1, DC] all in the first C1-space. Skip the next 2 sts. DC in the 3rd st., then go back and DC in the st. before it (creating a crossed stitch, that looks like an X).* Repeat from * to * 6x more. DC in the next C1-space to end the row. (7 Vs and 7 Xs)

Row 2. C3, turn your work. *[DC 2x, C1, DC 2x]* all in the first C1-space. Repeat from * to * across 6x more to the end of the shortened row. DC in the top of your beginning chain. (If you added extra sts. to Row 1, you'll do the same here.)

Row 3. Repeat Row 2.
Row 4. Repeat Row 2.

Continue on repeating rows 1 through 4 until it's even with the back panel. I repeated them 12 additional times, for a total of 52 rows. (You should end up with ONE more row for your front panels because of the connecting row.) NOTE: You should end each of your front panels with 3 - Row 2 repeats (cluster rows). This is what gives the pretty scalloped edge detail on the bottom! Now you can throw it on and get an idea for how it will really look!

Fasten off here (leaving a long string for seaming: approx. 3x the length of your sweater).




Front panel #2: Here we attach our yarn on the other side and begin to work on panel #2 for the front.
First count the number of sts. you used for panel #1 (I used 8 clusters). So, I counted in from the opposite end and re-attached my yarn with a slip stitch to begin my second panel. Be sure to attach it on the same side that you began your first panel. You don't want them to look differently. C3, then repeat the same directions (above) for panel #2.

This is me trying on my Bonfire Cardi for the first time before adding the sleeves!

(As you can see, it would be super cute without adding longer sleeves as well!)

Sleeves: Lay your sweater flat with the front panels facing you (similar to how I have it hanging in the photo, above). Now you have an idea of how the sweater will look once it's seamed and wearable! Make sure the correct side of your sweater is facing you. We will now attach our yarn onto the side of the sweater to begin sleeve #1.

NOTE: If you're making a larger size, I recommend trying the sweater on so you can get an idea of the fit and how big you should make the sleeves. The wonderful news about this pattern is: it can be easily adjusted to fit anyone!

Pinch up the side of the sweater (where it will be seamed) until you've reached a comfortable fit for the armpit area, then mark both sides with a stitch marker or piece of scrap yarn. The markers will be the guidelines for your sleeves.

For the size S/M - I counted 39 rows up and attached my yarn (on the side) with a slip st. - just before Row 40!

Row 1. C3, *[DC 2x, C1, DC 2x] all on the side of the first chain space, then skip the next chain space.* Repeat from * to * across 11 more times so that it matches up evenly (12 clusters total), then DC in the next chain space to end the row.

Do not join. We will be seaming the sleeves up, when we seam the sides.

Row 2. C3, turn your work. *[DC 2x, C1, DC 2x]* all in the first C1-space. Repeat from * to * across to the end of the row. DC in the top of your beginning chain. (Remember: If you added extra stitches to Row 1, you'll do the same # here.)

Row 3. Repeat Row 2.

Row 4. C3, turn your work. *[DC, C1, DC] all in the first C1-space, skip the next 2 sts., DC in the 3rd st., then go back and DC in the st. before it (creating a crossed stitch, that looks like an X).* Repeat from * to * to the last of the clusters, then DC in the top of your beginning chain to end the row.

Row 5. C3, turn your work. *[DC 2x, C1, DC 2x] all in the first C1-space. Skip the crossed stitch (AKA "x-stitch") and repeat from * to * in each C1-space to the end of the row. DC in the top of your beginning chain to end the row.

Row 6. Repeat Row 2 (clusters).

Row 7. Repeat Row 2 (clusters).

Row 8. Repeat Row 4 (Xs and Vs).

Now, if you're making the Adult size S/M please continue on to Row 9 below...

NOTE: If you're making a larger size, you will likely want to add another repeat or two for more length in the sleeves. If you do, continue on repeating the pattern: 3 rows of clusters, followed by a row of Xs and Vs. Then, complete the bottom of each of your sleeves with (Row 9 below) a simple row of SCs for a nice finished look.

Row 9. C1, turn your work. SC in each stitch (not the chain spaces) around to the end of the row.
Fasten off here. Repeat the same for sleeve #2.

Seaming your sweater:

You should have a long string on each side of the bottom of the front panels! We will be using these to seam up the sides and sleeves of your cardi! Lay your sweater out nice and flat (inside out). Beginning at the bottom, start whip stitching your sides together. Continue up the side to the bottom of the sleeve, and then continue carefully up the rest of the sleeve. At the end, knot that string to the end string of the sleeve! Now, fasten off and weave in your ends.

Your Bonfire Cardi is complete!

Tag your projects on Instagram #BonfireCardi

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This is an original pattern. Please do not claim this pattern as your own. If you'd like to share the pattern, please link directly back to this post. You may NOT sell or distribute it, however you may sell any items made from the pattern. Please always credit the design to me: April Turner and provide a link back to my blog.

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I hope you all enjoy creating with this FREE pattern!
If you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment down below.. or shoot me a DM on Instagram!

Happy Hookin'